Yes, we have heard of recent research (I assume you have) that has isolated the genome sequence of the acne-causing bacteria P. Acnes, which provides some hope that a definitive treatment for acne may be discovered in future. As of now, however, most dermatologists still use a combination of treatments to control acne, depending on its severity, and then pray for it to fade away on its own like the rest of us ordinary mortals, I guess.

Since the skin acts as the outlet for the maximum number of toxins residing in our body, keeping the skin healthy and detoxified would still appear to be our best bet in the battle against acne. To be fair, a combination of treatments can usually reduce the amount and severity of acne in most cases. However, the most effective treatments tend also to have the greatest side effects and so a dermatologist’s advice is crucial. So the next time a ‘friend’ suggests a cure for acne, you know what to say!

Unfortunately, this will do little for your acne. It would make far greater sense to consult a dermatologist before buying an over the counter acne medication. Charles, a doctor I know from my days at university, says the worst thing for a doctor is to try and get a self-medicating patient back on track. “The number of wrong decisions people take when self-medicating is killing,” he always says. So don’t think about it.

When you do consult a doctor, you will find that the first thing s/he will recommend is likely to be benzoyl peroxide, the life and soul of any over-the-counter acne treatment. Benzoyl peroxide can be found in various acne gels, lotions, and cleansers and works by killing the bacteria which cause acne. Depending on the severity of your acne, your doctor will prescribe a certain concentration of benzoyl peroxide, so stick to that.

What do we classify as oily skin? Well, the sebaceous glands in our skin produce sebum, or oil. Sebum is necessary to keep skin moisturized and protect it from microbial infections. In its basic state, sebum mainly contains lipids and dead skin cells. The trouble begins when your body produces more than the required amount of sebum. Voila! You have oily skin.

The logical question here is that why do some people have overactive sebaceous glands and others do not? Is it some special punishment for past misdeeds? Not really, and I can’t give you a more definitive answer because none exists, but increased hormonal activity usually triggers excess sebum production. That is one reason why, for instance, many women tend to get oily skin during their periods.

Excess sebum naturally means more oil on the skin, and acne-causing bacteria thrive on that because oil clogs the pores and traps dirt underneath them. So, oily skin needs to be kept clean and dirt-free. No harsh soaps, please, but using a mild face wash and astringent is a must. Oh, and keep those acne cleansers handy.

Every day of our lives, we absorb various toxic materials, whether from the air around us, from the food we eat, from the water we drink, even from the clothes we wear. And I haven’t even explored half the sources of toxins. Sad life, eh?

However, a good place to start the detoxifying process is food. It is also one of the easiest parts of our lives to control, I think. All you need to do is avoid red meat, dairy-rich products such as butter and cheese, and heavy food in general. My good friend Sarah Abernathy scoffed at this and said it was far easier said than done, but I would be willing to make the sacrifice.

Now don’t get me wrong. As I have said earlier, there’s no direct link between food and acne. But certain types of food appear to aggravate acne in indirect ways, so why not avoid them? And a diet that comprises chiefly fruits, vegetables and oil-free items can’t do you any harm either. Besides, detoxification is also about drinking lots and lots of water, which flushes out toxins and improves circulation. So go ahead and detoxify – it helped my acne, and is one of the best ways to naturally acquire good skin.

Years ago, a colleague at what was my workplace then was planning to sue a company that manufactured and marketed a fairly reputable brand of acne cleanser, because he insisted that far from improving, his acne had actually worsened after using the cleanser. I remember it all, the name of the cleanser included, but it has since vanished from the market, so I will refrain from naming it here.

My point is trust only those acne cleansers that promise to do what they should be doing. Ideally speaking, an acne cleanser should keep the pores open, kill the acne-causing bacteria, and also remove excess oil from your face. That is it. Any acne cleanser that works along those lines will have served its purpose.

It seems fairly obvious to me that acne cleansers need to be teamed with other things – such as adequate exercise, proper diet, and steady skin care – to be really effective. So do not believe acne cleanser ads and commercials that promise to do everything at once, particularly those late-night acne cleanser infomercials on TV. Moreover, as with any other acne treatment, what works for someone else may not work for you. So instead of expecting the earth, why not settle for a small part of it instead, and work to build up the other bits?

And what are these types? Well, oily and greasy creams and ointments exacerbate (this is such a peculiarly appropriate word for acne, but I foolishly digress) acne because they clog the hair follicles and we all know what that means. And don’t be fooled by products that say ‘tested by dermatologists’, because there’s nothing to indicate that these suit your skin type.

During my never-ending research (voluntary, in the service of suffering humanity etc.) on acne, I’ve come across loads of stuff on the kind of ingredients that an acne sufferer’s make-up box should absolutely NEVER contain. Here are the more common cosmetic ingredients that make the list: mineral oil, petrolatum, lanolin, pumice, aluminum oxide, sodium tetra borate, dyes such as those found in blush-on, isopropyl alcohol, SD alcohol, isopropyl myristate, and acetone. Phew…what have I left out?

That seems to exclude more or less all kinds of cosmetics from an acne sufferer’s universe, but take heart. There’s hope yet. The trick is to look for non-comedogenic or non-acnegenic products, so that they don’t clog the pores. And yes, water-based cosmetics do acne no discernible harm, so the situation’s not all doom.
 

 
Okay, I may be biased because I’ve experienced such reactions first hand, but ask any acne sufferer and s/he will tell you how acutely damaging acne can be socially. Angelique Hennart, a French girl who went to school with me and was one of the few schoolmates who could look beyond my pustules to the person within, once wondered why more research was not conducted on the psychological and social impact of acne.

 
I couldn’t answer her then, but I can now. I think the reason is that acne is not rare enough to warrant research. I mean, almost everyone gets it, and it isn’t threatening to your overall health, if you come right down to it. And yet, people with acne can be socially withdrawn, lack self-esteem, depressed or angry or frustrated, and even jobless, because they can’t face the world. Worse, because acne is widely – and incorrectly – associated with dirt, people assume that those with acne are ‘unclean’. See? I told you the comparison was valid.

Using make up to hide your acne isn’t difficult, but you need to follow some essential steps. So the three things you have to use are concealer, foundation, and finishing powder. I am talking about women here, but men are welcome to try these too! Okay, when buying these three things, make sure they’re oil-free and they match your skin tone, same as you would if you were buying regular cosmetics.

I’m not going to waste space teaching you exactly how to apply the make up, I’m assuming you know that already, but I am going to tell you that you have to invest in branded products if you are going to get anywhere with your acne make up. Cheap stands for deadly in ths area, and I speak from personal experience (OK not mine ! but from my sister experience).

Essentially, all acne treatments focus on dealing with the causes of acne. Obviously, what medication your dermatologist prescribes will depend on how severe your acne is, but it will also depend on its cause.

In brief, the most widely available acne treatments are tried and tested ones. I have heard and read quite a bit about alternative acne treatments, but frankly speaking, have not had the courage to try any of them yet. The things that ain’t broken don’t need fixing. So I sticked to the topical creams and gels that my doc gave me(ohh.. and pills to). You may also have to take oral medicines such as antibiotics (i did it to). In rare cases, some people may require surgical procedures. Thankfully, I have not had to resort to light and laser therapy, but I hear they have worked wonders for some.

However, the commonest and most popular methods to treat acne are topical ones. So your best bet is to use a benzyl peroxide and salicylic acid combination, preferably not over the counter, but authentically prescribed. It is only when your acne does not respond to such treatment that you will require oral medication, or perhaps even surgery, God forbid.

The point is that dirt does not cause acne, but might aggravate it. As is so often the case with us, we miss the wood for the trees when we say dirt causes acne. You think dirt clogs the pores of the skin and gives rise to blackheads. You’re dead wrong. Blackheads are not caused by dirt, but by the melanin present in sebum that turns black in contact with open air.

So why do people with acne keep washing themselves? Well, by washing yourself (with MILD soap and LUKEWARM water), what you are actually doing is removing the excess oils from the surface of the skin so your pores are no longer clogged. And of course, you are also removing dirt, which can infect the pores if it accumulates on the skin, along with sweat.

For best results, and I speak from personal experience, use facial cleansers that contain benzoyl peroxide and salicyclic acid. This drains out the excess sebum, and is in fact an excellent long-term control for acne.